Once the center of the largest empire the world has ever known, Mongolia is now the world's most sparsely populated country, with a total population of only 2.3 million. Landlocked between China and Siberia, the country is a vast expanse of high-altitude, grassland steppes, deserts, and mountains. Winters are long and harsh; Ulan Bator is said to be the world's coldest capital. The people, however, are warm and generous. Mongolian hospitality is legendary.

Where the People Are

With the collapse of collectivized farming, most of the population has returned to a seminomadic lifestyle, tending herds of horses, goats, sheep, cattle, yaks, and camels. Households move frequently--possibly as often as 18 times a year--to follow the pastures.

Over a quarter of the country's people live in Ulan Bator, a dusty city of dilapidated high-rise apartment blocks surrounded by sprawling ger settlements, the traditional tented houses of the nomadic people. Cows and goats occasionally wander the streets, nibbling the grass by the sidewalks and rummaging through the garbage.

About town, many people wear the traditional del--a long, brightly colored coat tied with a saffron sash--along with fur hats and knee-length boots with curled up toes. The younger generation dresses fashionably in suits, jeans, cashmere sweaters, and leather jackets.

Harsh Conditions

Communication with the outside world is difficult. A single railroad links China and Mongolia to the Trans-Siberian Railway. Roads are limited; most drivers simply head off over the trackless steppes.

There are few telephones, and they are found only in Ulan Bator and the aimag (provincial) and soum (district) centers. Nomadic families must rely on radio broadcasts for information, but access is limited because there are no stores on the steppes to replace batteries when they are used up.

Due to the harsh climate, the variety of food is limited, as well. The only vegetables that grow are potatoes, carrots, turnips, and cabbage. During the winter, people eat mainly meat, animal fat, and flour; in the summer, they consume "white foods"--milk products such as dried cream, curd, yogurt, and cheese.

Leisure Activities

Horse racing, wrestling, and archery are the traditional sports. Basketball and billiards are popular in the towns.

Since the collapse of socialism, there has been a steady revival of religious observance, mostly traditional Tibetan Lamaist Buddhism. Monasteries are being renovated and reopened, and traditional festivities, such as Tsagaan Sar (the lunar new year), have been restored. There are also small populations of Sunni Muslims and Christians.

For this small country in transition, the future holds many challenges but many opportunities as well.

Damien Wohlfahrt is AVSC's chief technical advisor to UNFPA's reproductive health program in Mongolia.